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Mowing seems simple enough, but each time you cut your grass you’re paving the way for your lawn’s success or failure. Mow correctly, and you’ll groom turf that’s healthy. Mow incorrectly, and your lawn will struggle to survive.
Different types of grasses like different heights. Tall Fescue likes to be cut tall, around 3 inches or so. This is not the case for Bermuda, Zoysia, Centipede, and other grasses. These grasses like to be cut at a shorter height. Bermuda likes to be cut around 2.25 to 2.50 inches. Each type of grass has an optimum height that encourages a healthy lawn.
If circumstances arise that allows a lawn to get too tall, then cut the grass in increments. Cut a little off one time then in about 3 days lower the lawnmower height a little and cut a little bit more off. If you cut it all at one time the lawn will turn brown and take a few weeks to recover.
Cutting the lawn while it's wet tends to result in an uneven cut and the grass doesn't cut cleanly. Because the grass is wet it will stick together and leave clumps of grass all over the lawn. You will also likely leave ruts in the lawn and tear the turf because of the wet soil. There are not any benefits of cutting a wet lawn.
Most lawns need to be aerated once or twice a year depending on soil type and the amount of compaction. If there is a lot of activity on the lawn throughout the year we suggest aerating twice a year. Aeration allows water to penetrate the soil profile much more efficiently and introduces more air to the root zone of your lawn. Most homeowners know that roots need water but forget or don't know that roots need oxygen also.
Contrary to popular opinion, grass clippings do not add to thatch buildup. Grass blades are made up of about 75% water.
Altering the direction ensures a more even cut since grass blades will grow more erect and less likely to develop into a set pattern.
This means having it sharpened several times during the mowing season. Keep several blades around so you’ll always have a sharp one on hand.
If you didn't drain the gas out of your lawn mower, or use a fuel stabilizer then your gas has most likely gone stale or started to separate. Don't use that old gas because it can cause problems with the mower. Old gas tends to separate after a few months of non use and it may "gum up" your carburetor and cause other issues. It is also a good practice to change the oil also.
When trying to decide when to start watering look for these signs. If the grass blades look wilted and you can see your footprints after walking across the lawn (instead of bouncing back up), it’s time to water. Also, if the lawn is losing its green, healthy color that is an indication of drought stress.
Water your lawn once or twice a week. When you do water, be sure to water very deeply. Do not water for 10 or 15 minutes every day because it is ineffective and encourages shallow roots. Thoroughly water so moisture soaks down to the roots. Exceptions to this general rule would be for newly seeded lawns where the surface needs to stay moist, newly sodded lawns that have not yet rooted into the soil, or when summer patch disease is a problem. Otherwise, avoid frequent waterings that promote shallower root systems and weeds.
If given a choice, it is better to water early in the morning when lawns are already wet from dew. Avoid watering in the middle of the day due to evaporation, and avoid watering at night due to potential increased chances of some diseases. If you can’t water in the early morning, then it is better to water in the early evening.
Sprinklers vary in distribution patterns, and require spray overlap for uniform coverage. Avoid flooding areas, or missing other spots. On heavy clay soils and slopes, watch for excessive runoff; it may be necessary to apply the water in several applications to allow for adequate penetration.
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